Sloth on Trip - Enoturystyka i Podróże

Tokaj is one of the oldest and most esteemed wine regions in the world, truly a mecca for wine tourism enthusiasts. Located in northeastern Hungary, at the foot of the Tokaj Mountains, it offers not only exceptional wines but also picturesque landscapes, historic cellars, and welcoming people who passionately continue the centuries-old winemaking tradition.

We began our journey in the village of Hercegkút, located in the Tokaj region. This charming locale is home to one of the most picturesque wine tourism sites—Kőporosi Pincesor. This complex consists of over 50 historic wine cellars carved into volcanic tuff, resembling the hobbit holes from J.R.R. Tolkien’s novels.

These cellars not only captivate with their unique architecture but also provide excellent conditions for wine storage. The constant temperature and humidity inside the cellars create an ideal environment for aging wines, imparting them with distinctive character and flavor.

Wandering through the narrow streets of Kőporosi Pincesor feels like stepping into the Shire, surrounded by rolling green hills and enchanting cellars.

Above the cellars stands the Calvary on Gombos Hill, a series of chapels depicting the Stations of the Cross, scattered along a path leading to the summit of the hill. At the top, visitors can enjoy a scenic viewpoint that offers breathtaking panoramas of the surrounding vineyards, valleys, and hills of the Tokaj region.

When we visited in May, unfortunately, only one wine cellar was open: Götz Winery. Established in 2000, although the first wines under this name were bottled earlier, it was the sole cellar accessible during our visit.

The interior of the Götz Winery's cellar is shrouded in a dark, mysterious atmosphere. Light filters through a stained glass window in the style of Alfons Mucha, casting colorful reflections on the tuff stone walls. The benches and tables, seemingly plucked from the pages of a novel, evoke images of a feast with Frodo, where laughter and tales abound as a company of dwarves shares stories of old adventures. This space is where the magic of literature intertwines with reality, creating a perfect setting for weaving wine tales.

Tokaji wines are renowned for their unique flavor profile, which stems from the region's distinctive climate and soil. The most famous among them are the sweet Tokaji wines, particularly Tokaji Aszú, often referred to as the "king of wines and the wine of kings." These wines are made from grapes affected by noble rot (Botrytis cinerea), which concentrates the sugars and imparts remarkable sweetness and complexity to the wine.

The predominant grape varieties include Furmint, Hárslevelű, and Sárgamuskotály (Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains). Furmint, the region's primary grape, produces wines with high acidity, making it ideal for both sweet and dry wines. Hárslevelű adds floral aromas, while Sárgamuskotály contributes fruity and floral notes, enhancing the bouquet of Tokaji wines. Tokaji wines are classified based on their sugar content and the degree of noble rot affecting the grapes.

The most well-known categories are:

Tokaji Aszú: Sweet wines, marked by the number of "puttonyos" (ranging from 3 to 6), which indicates the amount of botrytized grapes added.
Tokaji Szamorodni: Can be either dry or sweet, depending on the natural sugar content of the grapes.
Eszencia: The rarest and sweetest form, produced from the pure juice extracted from Aszú grapes, with a sugar content exceeding 450 g/l.

Along the way, we came across a beekeeper immersed in his work.

After leaving Hercegkút, we headed towards Tokaj, making a stop along the way at the Dereszla Pincészet wine cellar. Located in the picturesque Bodrogkeresztúr, by the Bodrog River, this winery not only offers excellent wines but also provides a chance to unwind at its nearby dock and restaurant.

What to See in Tokaj:

Vineyards and Wine Cellars Tokaj is primarily a realm of wine. It’s worthwhile to visit several vineyards to learn about the production process of the renowned Tokaji wines and to taste various types of these exquisite beverages. Many vineyards offer tours of their wine cellars, where you can observe traditional methods of wine storage and aging.
Tokaj Museum The Tokaj Museum provides a fascinating insight into the region's history and its long-standing winemaking tradition. The exhibits cover grape cultivation, wine production, and the local community’s culture, making it an ideal place to understand the significance of winemaking in Tokaj.
Boldogkő Castle Situated on a picturesque hill in the Tokaj region, Boldogkő Castle is one of Hungary’s most beautiful and well-preserved fortresses. Its stunning location and historical architecture make it a must-visit.
Tokaj Hill Tokaj Hill offers breathtaking views of the town and the surrounding vineyards. It’s worth climbing to the summit to enjoy the panoramic vistas, especially at sunrise or sunset. It’s also a great spot for a picnic or a leisurely walk.
Bodrog River Cruise The Bodrog River flows through Tokaj, providing an opportunity for a relaxing boat cruise. A river trip allows you to appreciate the beauty of the local landscape and vineyards from a unique perspective.
Rákóczi Cellar Located in the heart of the town next to the Bacchus Fountain, Rákóczi Cellar is open from 11:00 AM to 7:00 PM. It’s advisable to schedule a tasting in advance to fully enjoy the experience.

Festivals and Events in Tokaj

Tokaj also hosts a variety of festivals and events celebrating wine and culture. Key highlights include:

Tokaji Wine Festival: Held annually on the last weekend of May, this festival draws wine enthusiasts from around the world to enjoy tastings, workshops, and celebrations of Tokaji's rich winemaking heritage.
Tokaj Music Festival (September 13-15, 2024): This festival features a diverse lineup of musical performances, showcasing artists from various genres and offering a vibrant cultural experience.
Christmas Market: Taking place in December, the market is a festive highlight, with numerous stalls, holiday decorations, and traditional foods, creating a charming atmosphere for celebrating the season.

No wine tour is complete without sampling the local cuisine. In the heart of Tokaj, Labor Bistro offers the perfect culinary complement to your wine-tasting experience. This bistro presents a modern twist on traditional Hungarian cuisine, utilizing local, seasonal ingredients.

The menu at Labor Bistro is both creative and diverse, featuring dishes such as foie gras with quince mousse and a contemporary take on classic goulash. Each dish is meticulously crafted to harmonize with Tokaji wines, creating an unforgettable tasting experience.

On your way to one of the wineries, be sure to stop by Zempléni sajt to pick up delicious cheese and fresh butter. This cheese shop offers a range of artisanal cheeses that pair perfectly with Tokaji wines, making it a great stop to enhance your wine-tasting journey.

Szedmak Borház: A Family Winery Where Tradition Meets Modernity

The family-owned Szedmak Borhaz winery is a place where tradition seamlessly blends with modernity. With a history spanning several generations, the current owners proudly continue the legacy of their ancestors. A standout feature of the winery is the warm hospitality of its owner, who speaks Polish and warmly welcomes visitors from Poland. A visit to Szedmak Borház offers more than just a chance to taste exceptional wines; it provides an opportunity to learn about the family's history and the passion that drives them to produce outstanding beverages.

The winery specializes in both traditional Tokaji sweet wines and innovative dry wines. Their offerings reflect the unique terroir of the Tokaj region and the meticulous care with which they are crafted.

During our visit, Mr. Sandor Szedmak recommended a breathtaking viewpoint offering stunning panoramas of Tokaj: the Szent Teréz-kápolna in Tarcal. This lesser-known gem provides a magnificent view of the Tokaj region, showcasing its rolling hills, vineyards, and picturesque landscapes. The chapel itself, with its serene setting, adds to the experience, making it a perfect spot for appreciating the beauty of Tokaj from above.

If you're interested, Mr. Sandor Szedmak also organizes unique tours that include grape harvesting. These excursions offer an immersive experience in the winemaking process, allowing you to participate in the traditional grape-picking activities and gain firsthand insight into the craft of wine production. It's an excellent opportunity for wine enthusiasts to deepen their connection with Tokaj’s winemaking heritage.

Wycieczki Szedmak

Tokaj is a destination every wine enthusiast should visit. This region offers not only exceptional wines but also extraordinary enotourism experiences that linger in the memory. From the historic cellars of Kőporosi Pincesor and the warm hospitality of the Szedmak Borház winery to the culinary adventures at Labor Bistro, Tokaj provides everything needed to fall in love with Hungarian wines and culture.

"Tokaj: Hungarian Hobbit Cellars Brimming with Wine"