Sloth on Trip - Enoturystyka i Podróże

During our stay in Nantes, we decided to make the most of a beautiful afternoon by venturing outside the city, choosing the charming village of Saint Fiacre sur Maine, just under 20 km away. Our aim was to explore and partake in a wine tasting at the Château du Coing vineyard.

Situated at the confluence of two rivers, south of the city of Nantes, this castle is truly a sight to behold. A mere 200 meters north, the smaller Maine River merges with the larger Sèvre Nantaise River, creating an impressive riverside panorama. This positioning places the estate and its surrounding vineyards on a small peninsula encircled by water, contributing to a microclimate that imparts a significant minerality and freshness to the wines. It's not uncommon for guests to arrive at the Chateau by boat, adding to the unique experience.

The name "Coing," likely derived from the word "coin" meaning "corner," probably refers to the castle's location, beautifully tucked away in this picturesque corner of the region.

Château du Coing is a quintessential Loire Valley castle that dates back to the reign of Louis XIII. The first written records of this place trace back to 1536, when it was already referred to as a vineyard. In the 18th century, the castle underwent renovations. However, it faced turbulent times during the French Revolution, falling into disrepair for many years before being rescued in the 1970s by Muscadet enthusiasts. Today, it is managed by Véronique Günther Chéreau and her daughter Aurore, who have transformed part of the estate into an organically certified vineyard, overseeing this extraordinary place.

Upon reaching our destination, we were welcomed by a serene silence, until a majestic figure of a black Great Dane emerged from around the bend. This was Mystique, a grand presence evoking both respect and uncertainty. However, appearances can be deceiving; Mystique turned out to be a delightful, cuddly, and sweet mascot of the vineyard, eagerly greeting arriving guests with enthusiasm. Tosia quickly struck up a bond with Mystique, as the dog accompanied us for almost the entire tour of the estate.

For tours and tastings, it's best to make arrangements by phone or email. The vineyard tour consists of three stages:

Firstly, a tour of the external grounds of the estate, including the courtyard and agricultural buildings, whose architecture is inspired by Italian style.
Next, a presentation of the grape cultivation cycle and specific soil characteristics during a visit to one of the grapevine parcels.
Finally, we conclude the visit with a tasting of 3 Muscadets in the historical cellars.

A visit with tasting typically lasts around 1-1.5 hours, with a total cost of 16 EUR for two people. Definitely worth it!

In the vineyards of Nantes, white wines reign supreme, with few exceptions. Muscadet is produced primarily from the Melon de Bourgogne grape variety, originating from Burgundy, and it constitutes the mainstay of the vineyard plantings. This grape variety is scarcely grown in other regions. In the 17th century, it became dominant in the Loire-Atlantique region as Dutch merchants created a demand for relatively neutral wines suitable for distillation, thus supplanting the previously dominant red, light-bodied wines. In Poland, Muscadet may not be as popular, but for our palates, its acidic character makes it an ideal companion during vacations in France.

Melon de Bourgogne is not an easy grape variety to cultivate. Its resistance to cold, particularly crucial along the banks of the Loire River, is a significant asset in a region where June nights can be chilly and mornings unexpectedly frosty. However, its susceptibility to mold requires special attention and care from wine producers. It's worth noting that some winemakers take the risk and opt for organic and biodynamic cultivation of this grape variety. This bold decision demands more labor but also yields fruit in the form of wines of exceptional quality and character. Vineyard plots subjected to such agricultural practices not only express respect for the environment but also represent an attempt to understand and cooperate with nature, which ultimately determines the taste and aroma of the wine.

Muscadet, ranging in color from pale straw to golden, showcases its diversity not only in color but also in taste and aroma. It's a wine that evokes incredibly varied sensations, from subtle fruity notes to distinct mineral accents.

Weaker wines may be intensely fruity, but those of the highest quality enchant with their complexity and profound character. Their delicate fruitiness, enriched with hints of flowers and citrus, creates a harmonious composition that tantalizingly wafts in the glass. The distinct minerality felt on the palate lends Muscadet its unique character. This earthy, rocky, and sea-swept note is an integral part of the identity of these wines, giving them an unforgettable flavor and texture.

The majority of Muscadets are not intended for aging and are best enjoyed within two years of bottling. However, it's worth noting that good, carefully selected vintages can withstand aging for several years. During this time, the wine develops complexity and depth of flavor, offering unforgettable tasting experiences (it's best to ask the winemaker about specific bottles and their proper treatment).

The prominent label "Sur Lie" on the bottle or on the label indicates that for four months, the wine has undergone the "sur lie" method, meaning it has rested on the lees during this time. This natural sediment nourishes the wine, imparting complexity and longevity to it. In the cellars of Château du Coing, you can observe a cross-section of a barrel illuminated to reveal the visible sediment.

Wines from Château du Coing are characterized by floral and fruity notes (lily, carnation, pear, peach) with a beautiful minerality that adds elegance.

It's worth purchasing:

MUSCADET

Wines made from the Melon de Bourgogne grape variety, locally known as Muscadet, produce wines with an alcohol content of 9-12%. These wines are lively, fresh, fruity, and excellent with fish and seafood. Best served at a temperature of 8-10°C.

FOLLE BLANCHE

Wines from this variety, locally called Gros Plant (with alcohol ranging from 8.5% to 11%), are white, light, and perfect for seafood, shellfish, and oily fish. They can be vinified similarly to Muscadet. Best enjoyed young at a temperature of 8-10°C.

Below are the historic cellars of Château du Coing where the tasting took place.

During the tasting, we discovered that Muscadet is much more than just wine - it's history and culture encapsulated in a bottle. From fresh appetizers to exquisite desserts, Muscadet has the ability to enhance any meal, leaving unforgettable impressions. It's a true treasure of the Loire Valley, ready to be discovered by everyone, regardless of the season. Our Antosia received a whole bottle of delicious organic grape juice from our guide to taste during the session.

To conclude our journey, we headed to the nearby village of Château-Thébaud, beautifully situated along the river. Once there, it's worth visiting the Belvédère Le Porte-Vue (a terrace suspended over the cliff) for a breathtaking panorama of the river gorge and vineyards that abruptly end at the precipice. If time permits, it's also worth visiting Clisson or another vineyard along Le Voyage dans le Vignoble route.

Little Girl and Big Dog: Wine Tasting at Château du Coing Vineyard"